Coming October 30: My new book about food company sponsorship of nutrition research and its effects on public health.

Here is what some early readers had to say about it:

“What happens when one of the country’s great nutrition investigators follows the money in food and science? You get this riveting, provocatively-written book, which deftly explores how the processed food industry has deepened our dependence on its products by sponsoring and manipulating food research for decades. This book should be read by anyone who has been seduced by the words, ‘New study shows…’—which is all of us.”  —Michael Moss, author of Salt Sugar Fat

“Marion Nestle is a tireless warrior for public health, and her meticulous research and irrefutable arguments are desperately needed right now. This book, as frightening as it is, compels us to discover where true health begins: nutrition starts in the ground, with real food that is sustainably grown, eaten in season, and alive.”  —Alice Waters, founder, owner, and executive chef of Chez Panisse

 “In clear, concise language, Marion Nestle details the many ways our ideas about what to eat are being manipulated by Big Food.  If you want to make better choices, read this book.”  —Ruth Reichl, former editor of Gourmet Magazine

 “Marion Nestle is a national treasure.  She has the courage to take on multinational corporations and the wisdom to separate the facts from the spin.  If you care about our food system and the health of your family, Unsavory Truth is essential reading.”  —Eric Schlosser, author of Fast Food Nation

“Marion Nestle has been a guiding light for sanity, credibility, and justice in food and nutrition for decades; she stands alone in her field. In Unsavory Truth, she exposes the awful deceptions practiced on eaters by manipulative food companies using ‘scientific research’ try to make themselves look good.”  —Mark Bittman, author of How to Cook Everything

 “Marion Nestle is a truth-teller in a world awash with nutrition lies of one kind and another. In this scintillating and eye-opening book, Nestle reveals how much of our confusion about food in modern times has been spread by the food industry itself, which passes off marketing as science and funds ‘research’ designed to show that its products are harmless. Unsavory Truth is essential reading for anyone in search of hard facts about what to eat.”  —Bee Wilson, author of First Bite and Consider the Fork

I listened in yesterday to the webinar on USDA’s proposed relocation and reorganization of the Economic Research Service.  Participants included Scott Swinton (Michigan State University), Cathie Woteki (former undersecretary for research at USDA), Susan Offutt (former ERS head), Gale Buchanan (another former undersecretary for research, USDA), and Stephen Censky (current USDA deputy secretary). The former officials were unanimous in arguing that the proposal to relocate the agency outside of Washington DC and reorganize it into the USDA Secretary’s office was “ill-conceived,” made no sense, was done without appropriate consultation, was potentially illegal, would politicize the agency, and would damage, if not destroy, an agency that is the jewel of USDA. The USDA says the reasons for doing this are easier recruitment, cheaper rent, closer alignment with the Secretary’s policy initiatives, and getting the agency closer to stakeholders.  None of these bears up under even the most casual scrutiny. So what is this really about? I’m guess that this is about getting political control over—silencing—an agency that conducts independent, unbiased, nonpartisan research that risks leading to inconvenient truths. Here, for example, are some recent publications [with my comments].

• Participation in USDA’s Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP): Effect of Local Labor Market Conditions in Oregon: Local labor market conditions were strongly linked to the probability of leaving SNAP… When labor market conditions were measured at the local level, researchers estimated a greater responsiveness by SNAP recipients to labor market conditions, as opposed to what other researchers have measured at the State or national levels [if there aren’t jobs available, people will need to stay on SNAP].
• Household Food Security in the United States in 2017: An estimated 11.8 percent of American households were food insecure at least some time during the year in 2017, lacking access to enough food for an active, healthy life for all their members. That is down from 12.3 percent in 2016 [but still high].
• High-Poverty Schools Are More Likely To Adopt the Community Eligibility Provision of the USDA School Meal Programs: The Community Eligibility Provision (CEP) allows eligible schools to offer USDA school meals to all students at no charge. During the 2016-17 school year, 47 percent of U.S. school districts eligible to use CEP used the provision in at least one school [less than half are giving kids free meals].

ERS is not broke and does not need fixing.  The proposal must be understood as an attempt to destroy the ERS.  Participants called for:

• Congressional hearings
• An independent cost-benefit analysis
• Delay further action until then or, better yet, a full stop

I am a big user of ERS data and a great admirer of the work of ERS economists. Other views on the webinar and this issue

• Agri-Pulse
• Center for Progressive Reform
• Politico (behind paywall, alas)

Additions, September 24

The groups that did the WEbinar have forwarded links:

• USDA Research Relocation and Reorganization: Perspectives from Former USDA Chief Scientists and Administrators (464 people registered).
• The recording is online .
• The slides are online.
• The webinar webpage is online.
• The sign-on letter—organizations only—to Congress is at www.tinyurl.com/ERS-Strong
• Another sign-on letter for former administration officials and heads of statistical agencies is at www.tinyurl.com/StrongERS4USDA.

These ask Congress to:

• retain the ERS in the national Capitol region;
• maintain and strengthen the integrity and independence of the ERS as a statistical agency; and
• keep the budget and personnel for the USDA Economic Research Service at least at FY 2018 levels.

Additions, September 25 (thanks to the Hagstrom Report

▪ USDA — Secretary Perdue response to Roberts and Stabenow
▪ American Statistical Association — Count on Stats
▪ — Fact Sheet
▪ — Friends of Agricultural Statistics and Analysis Sign-On Letter Opposing USDA re-organization and re-alignment of the Economic Research Service
▪ — USDA Economic Research Service Sign-On Letter – Former administration officials and statistical agency leaders
▪ — NIFA Relocation Letter to Congress
▪ Center for Progressive Reform — Draining Washington of Science and Talent

Here is the latest collection of industry articles on dairy alternatives and plant-based meats—all doing quite well these days.

Dairy Alternatives

DairyReporter.com has a Special Edition: The rise of these plant-based products.  

Many dairy companies, rather than ignoring the rise in plant-based alternatives to dairy products, are jumping on the bandwagon, either through developing their own vegan and vegetarian product range, or through acquisitions, such as Danone’s high-profile takeover of WhiteWave.  This special newsletter looks at some of the latest developments in the plant-based dairy alternatives space.

• Global Dairy Preferences, Perceptions, Priorities: As consumer attitudes about dairy are changing, regional and demographic differences add further complexity. Our global survey sheds light on key purchase influencers for dairy and dairy alternative products in 13 countries worldwide…   Click Here
• Vegan cheese alternatives – closing the flavor gap: While many vegans are not overly concerned at finding products that resemble non-plant based foods, those experimenting with vegetarian, vegan or flexitarian lifestyles are often looking for plant-based foods similar to those they are cutting from their diet… Read
• Launch of Plant-Based Foods of Canada: Dairy giant Danone is one of several members of Canada’s plant-based food industry that has announced the formation of Plant-Based Foods of Canada (PBFA)… Read
• Riot Foods will bring new plant-based ‘dairy’ products to market in 2019: Riding the success wave of plant-based dairy alternatives, brands are looking to capitalize on consumer demand by developing more products. Riot Foods is launching to help fill that void… Read
• Veganism still growing despite dissatisfaction with food options: 90% of US vegetarians are considering veganism, even though half of US vegans are dissatisfied with their food choices. With less structured diets trending among young consumers, food brands need to innovate and expand their offerings, according to a study from Ingredient Communications… Read
• If goatmilk gets a pass, so should almondmilk, says nonprofit; NMPF counters: ‘A goat produces milk; a bean or seed does not’: If dairy farmers are OK with the lacteal secretions of goats, sheep, and buffalo being described as ‘milk,’ provided the word is prefaced with a modifier (goat’s milk, sheep milk), they should accept the same tactics from firms selling almond and soy milk, says one nonprofit health advocacy organization… Read
• ‘World Plant Milk Day’ celebrates second year: While the war of words over whether plant-based dairy alternatives can use the term ‘milk’ rages in the US, having already been banned in other areas, the ProVeg UK and Plant Based News creation World Plant Milk Day is being marked for the second time on August 22… Read
• Flexitarianism is no fad, meat and dairy sector warned: Social media sites like Instagram have fueled interest in veganism, according to a new report, but plant-based eating is not just a passing trend… Read
• More young, liberal Americans identify as vegan or vegetarian than any other group, little change from 2012: Only 5% of Americans identify as vegetarian and just 3% identify as vegan despite a much wider range of meat-free and dairy-free options on the market, a Gallup report finds… Read

What about plant-based meat?

• According to another industry newsletter, GlobalMeatNews.com, sales of plant-based meats are doing really well—up by 23% in the last year and worth close to $1 billion.
• Cultured meat cos agree to replace term ‘clean meat’ with ‘cell-based meat’ and form trade association:  As the debate over labeling conventions and regulatory frameworks intensifies in the burgeoning cell-cultured meat arena, a group of start-ups seeking to grow meat from cells without slaughtering animals has agreed to form an industry trade association and adopt the term ‘cell-based meat’ to describe their wares, FoodNavigator-USA understands… Read
• Hormones/antibiotic-free claims, followed by animal welfare, are the top consumer drivers for cell-based meat, says Mattson: New survey data from food development specialist Mattson suggests that the #1 thing consumers see as appealing about cell-based meat (grown from animal cells in a culture, without slaughter) is that it could “help reduce the amount of hormones and antibiotics we consume” (cited by 39% of respondents). Read more

I first wrote about soda company pouring rights contracts in 2000.  I also discussed these contracts in Soda Politics: Taking on Big Soda (and Winning).

These contracts are still a big issue, at least at the college level.

A site called MuckRock has just published an analysis of 38 pouring rights contracts, which it obtained through open-records requests from public universities.

Good for them!  The contracts make riveting reading.

Coke and Pepsi compete for these contracts and it is easy to understand why.  They provide for exclusive sales of the winning company’s products on school campuses.

The companies give the schools money, often in the millions.  In return, the schools are required to promote—heavily—the contracted products.

As MuckRock documents, the contracts demand lots of space and exposure for the products.  They turn colleges and universities into pushers of sugary beverages.  This, at a time when everyone would be healthier avoiding sugary drinks or consuming them in small amounts.

MuckRock posts the contracts so you can read them for yourself.

Is your college not listed?  MuchRock says:

Well, we want to expand our survey to your school, too. Help us out by sending us the name of a public college or university, and we’ll submit a request for its alliance in the Battle of the Colas.

This is great investigative reporting.  When I wrote my 2000 article, I based it on one contract leaked to me by a school food official appalled by this marketing technique.  At the time, Coke and Pepsi were contracting with junior high and elementary schools.  Fortunately, they have stopped doing that and are now concentrating on older kids.

That’s some progress, I guess.

Want to get pouring rights off of your campus?  Good luck with that.  This is a perfect example of money vs. public healh.  Guess which is more likely to win.

I’m catching up on reading and just came across the USDA’s annual report, Rural America at a Glance, 2017.

Rural areas, says the USDA, face challenges:

• Outmigration
• Increased adult mortality (opioid use)
• Unemployment
• Poverty

What does USDA suggest as the solution?  Broadband.

I’m for insisting that media companies get broadband into rural areas right now. (I have plenty of personal experience with the broadband dead zone between Whitney Point and Ithaca in upstate New York), but that’s not enough.

How about doing something to promote smaller scale, less industrial farming that would bring people back into those areas, and give them meaningful work.

Rural America is turning into America’s Third World.  That’s not good for anyone.

Coming October 30:  My new book about food company sponsorship of nutrition research and its effects on public health.  

To introduce the book, which describes the consequences of conflicts of interest generated by food industry research funding, I will be doing a series of posts about it over the next few weeks.

I begin this series with a discussion of how I manage my own financial relationships with food, beverage, or supplement companies.

As a nutrition professor, even one who is retired, I cannot avoid contacts with food companies, nor do I necessarily want to.  I need to know what they are doing.

I go to meetings sponsored by food companies, read journals sponsored by food companies, read newsletters they send me, and get frequent gifts of books, research materials, product samples, and swag ranging from small (jump drives, squeeze toys) to enormous (would you believe a room-size punching bag that looks like a cola can?).

I give talks to and occasionally consult for food companies.  At issue is how to do this without being influenced to change what I write or say—or appear to be so influenced.

If I were wealthier, I would just pay my own expenses and be done with it.  As it is, I figured out a management policy for dealing with food company gifts and payments.

• I accept reimbursements for travel, hotels, meals, and meeting registrations (otherwise I would not be able to go).
• I do not accept honoraria, consulting fees, or any other personal payment.
• Instead, I ask the company to make an equivalent donation to the NYU Library’s Food Studies collection (which is named after me) or to my department’s fund for student travel.  If the checks come to me directly, I endorse them over to NYU.  I report all such income appropriately on tax forms.

I am well aware that this policy is not perfect.  Small gifts, meals, and travel reimbursements are thoroughly established to influence physicians’ prescription practices, and I derive reputational benefit from donations to NYU.

But this policy makes me think carefully about conflicted situations and I try to make it work as well as I can.

My conflict of interest declaration on journal articles reads as follows:

Marion Nestle’s retirement and research funds from New York University support her research, manuscript preparation, and website at foodpolitics.com.  She earns royalties from books, and honoraria and travel from lectures, about matters relevant to this publication.

A summary of this policy is posted on the About page on this site.

Johsua Sbicca.  Food Justice Now!  Deepening the Roots of Social Struggle.  University of Minnesota Press, 2018.

This book is about how to turn the “eat-better” food movement into a movement for social justice.  It directly addresses the complaint that the food movement has no real power.

Sbicca, a sociologist at Colorado State, bases his analysis on three case studies of food justice activism focused on creating reasonably paid work for former prisoners and low-wage workers, many of them of color or immigrants.

He tells the stories of three programs, Planting Justice in Oakland, California; the San Diego Roots Sustainable Food Project; and programs run by the United Food and Commercial Workers Local 770.

In writing this book, he investigates

the tensions between maintaining an “us” in the food movement and a “them” needed to keep the food system running.  This informs the prospects of a food politics that is capable of overcoming ethnoracial and citizenship boundaries…The ethnoracial and class makeup of food workers pushes labor organizers to challenge the race-to-the-bottom practices of food corporations.

He ends the book by calling for what is needed to create true food justice: land, labor, community development, health, self-determination, and environmental sustainability—exactly what is called for in food system reform.

This is an academic book but well worth reading for anyone who cares about building a movement with power to change food systems.

BeverageDaily.com does a monthly special collection of industry-focused articles on beer.  This one spotlights sustainability, but includes a couple of items about—really!—cannabis-infused beer, as well as tea, coffee, and water.  As readers of this blog know, I am following the politics of cannabis edibles.  It’s now time to add drinks to the list, or what is known in the trade, apparently, as the “THC-infused beverage space.”

• Molson Coors on sustainability: ‘Changing the way industry has operated for decades is always a challenge’: As Molson Coors looks back on its first year of progress towards its 2025 sustainability and responsibility targets, it highlights two key takeaways. Firstly, the biggest challenge has been in creating a culture of change across the organization; and secondly, there’s the importance of working in partnership with other stakeholders if it is to make a sizeable difference… Read
• World Cup boost for Budweiser: ‘Football is a passion point in the new markets we’ve expanded in’:  Budweiser’s position as global sponsor of the 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia has helped AB InBev drive the brand into new markets opened up by the combination with SABMiller… Read
• ‘Bountiful 2018 harvest’ predicted for US hops:  The 2018 Pacific Northwest hop acreage is forecasted to increase to a record high, while US hop grower Hopsteiner says advances in technology will further boosts this year’s harvest… Read
• Constellation Brands acquires Texas craft brewer Four Corners Brewing:  Constellation Brands has bought Texas brewer Four Corners Brewing, as it increases its focus on the high-end in the US beer market… Read
• ‘Strong start’ for Corona Premier, says Constellation Brands:  Corona Premier and Corona Familiar – the first major Corona innovations in over 25 years – are already exceeding expectations, says Constellation Brands; while it is also experimenting with premium spiked refresher Corona Refresca in test markets… Read
• Cannabiniers launches full line of THC-infused beverages:  Cannabis-infused beer, tea and coffee launch this summer from Cannabiniers brands Two Roots Brewing Co. and Just Society Cold Brew Beverages… Read
• Lagunitas launches cannabis-infused sparkling water:  Heineken’s Lagunitas is launching Hi-Fi Hops, an ‘IPA-inspired’ sparkling water infused with cannabis: saying it is the first time a major brewery has successfully been represented in the THC-infused beverage space… Read
• Lion acquires London craft brewer, Fourpure Brewing Co:  Australian-headquartered Lion has acquired London craft brewer Fourpure Brewing Co. And while Fourpure says the beer and culture will remain the same, it wants to embrace the opportunities the acquisition brings: ‘We truly hope you will see some change, otherwise why would we bother?”.. Read
• Wine tariffs eliminated as EU-Japan Economic Partnership Agreement signed:  The EU-Japan Economic Partnership Agreement (EPA) has been signed this week, removing tariffs on EU wine exports to Japan… Read
• Craft brewing and business strategies: ‘Small is the new big’:  Throw out the rule book. When it comes to the craft beer business, bigger is not always better; and profit maximisation is not always the ultimate goal. Here’s why craft breweries need to think differently to other businesses… Watch now
• Nostalgia may seem nice – but alcohol brands should use with care:  An increasing number of brands are drawing on nostalgia as a marketing tool: but alcohol brands that try to appeal to an adult’s inner child must take care that they do not also inadvertently appeal to children today, warns the Portman Group… Read

And here are even more of its articles about the beer industry.  Be sure to check the one about how to personalize yours with 3D printing.

• Carlsberg to invest €100m in Kronenbourg brewery: Carlsberg will invest up to €100m ($117m) in its Kronenbourg brewery in Obernai, France; its largest brewery in Europe… Read
• Independent US craft beer production up 5% so far in 2018: There are 6,655 active craft breweries in the US with more than 2,500 in planning, according to new mid-year metrics released by the Brewers Association (BA)… Read
• Heineken and China Resources Beer announce strategic partnership: Heineken will take a $3.1bn stake in the parent of China Resources Beer, China’s largest brewer. The deal gives Heineken greater access to the Chinese market; while China Resources will be able to grow in the premium market and potentially expand its Snow brand internationally… Read
• 3D printing allows personalized beer and cocktails: Ripples has developed a system that can print custom images and messages onto beers, cocktails and coffees; at bars, shops, restaurants and hotels around the world… Read
• Carlton Zero pledges to drive up non-alcoholic beer category in Australia: Carton & United Breweries, AB InBev’s Australian subsidiary, has launched its first non-alcoholic beer in its 180 year history… Read