Food Politics

by Marion Nestle
Jan 29 2026

What’s happening with plant-based meat: a roundup

Here’s my most recent collection of items about plant- and cell-based meats, in an effort to try to figure out what is happening with the market for these products.  Prospects are not as bright as they were at the height of this trend, but these product have considerable staying power.  Time will tell.

Trends

Successes

Difficulties

Regulation

Jan 28 2026

The infant formula scandals: will they ever stop?

I’m not sure why we’ve seen so many problems with contaminated infant formula lately, but this must stop—and be stopped.  Infants who are not breast fed are dependent on formula.  Families buying formula for their infants assume it is safe.  If it’s not, it’s a disaster.

The ByHeart formula disaster

This one is about botulism in ByHeart formula.

Oregon baby is still battling infant botulism after ByHeart formula exposure: A Portland, Oregon, baby got sick with infant botulism after drinking contaminated ByHeart formula donated through a program that helps poor and homeless families.  What happens to these babies is devastating.

Ashaan Carter, now 10 months old, was hospitalized twice and remains on a feeding tube after contracting the dangerous infection that has sickened more than 50 babies across the U.S.…Ashaan was hospitalized for nearly two weeks in November and discharged without a feeding tube. His health rapidly declined, including dramatic weight loss, and he was hospitalized again in December…[he] had to have the feeding tube down his throat replaced because his muscles remain weak…He is having to relearn how to crawl and to talk…Since June 2022, nearly 24,000 cans of formula have been distributed to groups that aid homeless and other vulnerable families, the company said.

Food safety lawyer Bill Marler is representing families with children injured by the families.  Here’s what he and Food Safety News have to say about all this:

The Nestlé infant formula disaster

The company, to which I am not related, recalled infant formula products from nearly 60 countries, because cereulide, a toxin that causes nausea and vomiting, was found in an ingredient—ARA oil—used in making it.

ARA stands for arachidonic acid, a long-chain essential omega-6 fatty acid found in breast milk.Like many other nutrient ingredients, it was made in China.  That company is now testing its products.

Here’s what’s happening:

The heavy metals crisis

RFK Jr. says heavy metals in baby formula study coming in April

Kennedy, speaking at a health-themed rally in Harrisburg, Pa., said the studies set to publish in April will focus on the presence of contaminants including cadmium, mercury, and lead in baby formula.  “We’re going to be regulating baby formula companies so they’re giving you something that is as close to mother’s milk as we can get,” Kennedy said.

Officials at HHS and FDA launched “Operation Stork Speed” in March 2025 to improve the safety and supply of infant formula. A Bloomberg Law investigation published in January 2023 found that all but one of 33 baby food products tested by a laboratory contained at least two of three heavy metals: lead, arsenic, and cadmium…As part of the baby formula review, FDA is updating which nutrients manufacturers are required to include in their products. Kennedy said that’s because some of the existing 30 required nutrients were based on “archaic science.

Comment

What’s going on here?  Why are infant formula supply chains so sloppy?  Isn’t anyone minding the store?

I can’t believe this situation.  What a dilemma it causes for parents who for whatever reason are not breast-feeding their infants.

Maybe it’s time to go back to the do-it-yourself days using evaporated milk, as was done before commercial infant formula was invented? [**But see note below}.

* 13 oz. can of evaporated whole milk (reduced fat, skim, and sweetened condensed milk will not provide enough calories or nutrition)
* 18–19 oz. of water
* 2 tablespoons of white granulated sugar or 1 tablespoon of light corn syrup
This has to be kept as sterile as possible and supplemented with baby vitamins.  Best to discuss with pediatrician.
**Note: I have received several distressed notes from former FDA and AAP (American Academy of Pediatricians) officials warning against making and using homemade infant formula because of its well documented hazards: improper dilution, lack of nutrients at appropriate levels, and contamination with home pathogens.  These are real problems and need to be taken seriously. Commercial infant formula has long been a superior choice.  If you are worried about contamination of powdered formula, a better option is to use pre-prepared pasteurized formula.  It will cost more, but will be safer.
Jan 27 2026

My latest publication: BMJ editorial on the dietary guidelines

Politics trump science in new US dietary guidelines Evidence takes a backseat to conflicting interests in the latest health mandates

BMJ 2026;392:s143 doi: https://doi.org/10.1136/bmj.s143 

The new dietary guidelines1 and food pyramid2 issued by the US Departments of Health and Human Services and Agriculture have been met with great fanfare and furore.34 Under the aegis of “make America healthy again,” their overall message is the sensible, “Eat real food.” Among the actual guidelines, three repeat longstanding advice: “Eat the right amount for you,” “Focus on whole grains,” and “Eat vegetables and fruits throughout the day.” The guidelines reiterate longstanding recommendations to limit sugars and saturated fat to 10% of calories, and sodium to 2300 mg/day. But for the first time, they also include food processing: “Limit highly processed foods, added sugars, and refined carbohydrates.” Although this guideline does not use the term “ultraprocessed,” that is what it means; it calls for limits on petroleum based dyes and artificial sweeteners, flavours, and preservatives.5 So far, so good.

But then come four additional guidelines: “Prioritise protein foods at every meal,” “Consume dairy,” “Incorporate healthy fats,” and “Limit alcoholic beverages.” These redefine protein to favour meat rather than plant consumption, prioritise full fat rather than low fat dairy foods, specify butter and beef tallow as examples of healthy fats, and omit warnings about alcohol as a cancer risk. This reverses decades of heart health advocacy.

Questionable provenance

Most troubling is the lack of due process, dismissal of scientific consensus, and overt conflicts of interests in producing these guidelines, despite stated promises that they would reflect “gold standard science” and would not reflect corporate interests.6 Since 1980, the production of the guidelines has followed a two to three year process: a scientific report is written by the Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee, the report is used to develop the guidelines, and a food guide is based on the guidelines. When I was a member of the committee in 1995, we set the research questions, reviewed the research, wrote the scientific report, and wrote the guidelines. Later, the departments of health and agriculture jointly took over all stages except the research review, allowing politics to overpower the science.

For these new guidelines, the agencies rejected the scientific report commissioned during the Biden presidency7 and appointed their own committee, giving it only three months to produce its 90 page report and 418 page appendix.89 Although the agencies insisted that these guidelines would not reflect industry influence and would be free of conflicts of interest, they kept neither promise. Most members of the research committee reported financial ties to food companies with vested interests in dietary advice; four members, for example, reported financial relationships with beef, pork, and dairy trade associations.910

One lawsuit is already charging the agencies with disregarding congressionally mandated processes for preparing the guidelines and, instead, relying on the recommendations of a “hastily assembled … panel of meat, dairy, and fat diet industry insiders,”11 whose names were revealed only on publication of their report. Who wrote the guidelines and designed the pyramid remains undisclosed.

Previous guidelines emphasised the benefits of diets based on lean meats, low fat dairy products, and plant sources of protein.12 These do the opposite. Although they say, “Every meal must prioritize high-quality, nutrient-dense protein from both animal and plant sources,” animal sources clearly come first, making protein seem a euphemism for meat. The guidelines recommend increasing protein intake from 0.8 g/kg body weight to 1.2 to 1.6 g/kg, despite current US consumption levels already being close to 1.2 g/kg, two thirds of which comes from meat.13 Furthermore, there is scarce evidence that exceeding current levels provides additional benefit.14 Adhering to higher protein goals while keeping saturated fat to 10% of calories will be challenging.

The messages about meat and full fat dairy are explicitly evangelical.7 Health and human services secretary, Robert F Kennedy Jr, posted on X, “Beef is BACK.” He and agriculture secretary, Brooke Rollins, appear on X with milk moustaches promoting full fat dairy. It too is “BACK,” supported by a new law requiring whole milk to be offered in schools.15 As for alcohol, health official Mehmet Oz said, “I don’t think you should drink alcohol, but it does allow people an excuse to bond and socialise, and there’s probably nothing healthier than having a good time with friends in a safe way.”16 Such messages minimise the risks of alcohol to health and society.17

The idea behind these messages is that eating real food and avoiding ultraprocessed food will achieve satiety and promote health, which they well might.51819 But largely plant based diets benefit health—and the environment.2021 In contrast, meat and dairy production pollute the environment, release greenhouse gases, and raise issues of animal welfare and worker safety.2223 These guidelines ignore such issues.

Also omitted is any discussion of the resources needed to follow such advice. Real food is more expensive than ultraprocessed foods and requires cooking skills, kitchens, equipment, and time. Not everyone has such things, but the agencies explicitly reject equity as a consideration.7 These guidelines also must be understood within the context of the current dismantling of the US public health system. We need public health to support diets that really can promote human and environmental health.

Footnotes

  • Competing interests: MN has no competing interests with food and beverage companies; she earns royalties from books and honorariums from lectures about the politics of food.

  • Provenance and peer review: Commissioned, not externally peer reviewed.

References

  1. ↵ HHS, USDA. Dietary guidelines for Americans, 2025-2030. https://cdn.realfood.gov/DGA.pdf
  2. ↵ HHS, USDA. Real food starts here. https://realfood.gov/
  3. ↵ USDA. Kennedy, Rollins unveil historic reset of U.S. nutrition policy, put real food back at center of health. Press release, 7 Jan 2026. https://www.usda.gov/about-usda/news/press-releases/2026/01/07/kennedy-rollins-unveil-historic-reset-us-nutrition-policy-put-real-food-back-center-health
  4. ↵ Tanner J. Experts reveal greatest concerns with RFK Jr.’s new dietary guidelines. The Hill 17 Jan 2026. https://thehill.com/policy/healthcare/5692009-experts-reveal-greatest-concerns-with-rfk-jr-s-new-dietary-guidelines/
  5. Monteiro CA, Louzada MLC, Steele-Martinez E, et al. Ultra-processed foods and human health: the main thesis and the evidence. Lancet 2025;406:2667-84. doi:10.1016/S0140-6736(25)01565-X.
  6. ↵ HHS. Fact sheet: Trump administration resets US nutrition policy, puts real food back at the center of health. 2026. https://www.hhs.gov/press-room/fact-sheet-historic-reset-federal-nutrition-policy.html
  7. ↵ Scientific Report of the 2025 Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee. 2025. https://www.dietaryguidelines.gov/sites/default/files/2024-12/Scientific_Report_of_the_2025_Dietary_Guidelines_Advisory_Committee_508c.pdf
  8. ↵ HHS, USDA. The scientific foundation for the dietary guidelines for Americans. 2026. https://cdn.realfood.gov/Scientific%20Report.pdf
  9. ↵ HHS, USDA. The scientific foundation for the dietary guidelines for Americans Appendices. 2026. https://cdn.realfood.gov/Scientific%20Report%20Appendices.pdf
  10. ↵ Cueto I. Behind new dietary guidelines: Industry-funded studies, opaque science, crushing deadline pressure. Stat News 17 Jan 2026. https://www.statnews.com/2026/01/17/new-food-pyramid-behind-the-scenes-dietary-guideline-development/
  11. ↵ Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine. Petition for investigation and administrative action. 2026. https://pcrm.widen.net/s/p6qggt8j6n/dietary-guidelines-usda-hhs-complaint-physicians-committee-for-responsible-medicine
  12. ↵ US Government. Previous editions of the Dietary Guidelines for Americans.https://www.dietaryguidelines.gov/about-dietary-guidelines/previous-editions
  13. ↵ Hoy MK, Clemens JC, Moshfegh AJ. Protein intake of adults in the US: what we eat in America, NHANES 2015-2016. Food surveys research group dietary data brief No 29. 2021. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK589212/
  14. ↵ USDA. Whole Milk for Healthy Kids Act of 2025—implementation requirements for the national school lunch program. 2026. https://www.fns.usda.gov/nslp/wmfhka-implementation
  15. ↵ Rabin RC. New dietary guidelines abandon longstanding advice on alcohol. New York Times 7 Jan 2026. https://www.nytimes.com/2026/01/07/health/dietary-guidelines-alcohol.html
  16. ↵ Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Alcohol use and your health. 2025. https://www.cdc.gov/alcohol/about-alcohol-use/index.html
  17. ↵ Dicken SJ,
Jan 26 2026

The sugar industry fights back

With the new dietary guidelines taking such a strong stance on minimizing sugar intake, the sugar industry has its damage-control work cut out.

Lisa Sutherland, my co-author on our forthcoming (September 2026) Sugar Coated: Unboxing the Hidden Forces Shaping America’s Favorite Breakfast. Food, sent this link to information sent out to dietitian subscribers to Today’s Dietitian.

When it comes to added sugars, on one hand the public is hearing they should stop eating sugar entirely, on the other, they’re hearing that real sugar is healthier than other forms of added sugars and sweeteners. The fact is that added sugars currently make up around 13% of Americans total calories – the lowest amount in 40 years and close to the lowest amount ever recorded (11% in 1909). The steep decline in added sugars intake over the past 25 years has coincided with rising rates of childhood obesity and chronic disease – yet most people are unaware of these data and continue to demonize and place a significant amount of blame on real sugar for these conditions.

It then goes on to discuss all this under the following headings:

  • Real Sugar plays a key role in healthy balanced diets
  • Real Sugar is irreplaceable as a single ingredient
  • Facts over fear

And it comes with great charts.  My favorite, too big to reproduce here, is titled “Sugar is a partner in nutrient delivery.”  This points out that high-fiber cereals, fruit yogurs, canned vegetables, salad dressings, peanut butter, and pre-packaged snacks all are more enjoyable to eat and have longer shelf-life with some sugar tossed in.

Jan 23 2026

Weekend reading: The Spinach King

John Seabrook.  The Spinach King: The Rise and Fall of an American Dynasty.  Norton, 2025 (346 pages).

This book is a memoir by New Yorker staff writer, John Seabrook, about his rich, unscrupulous, and bigoted grandfather and father but there is so much food politics in it that it belongs on my must-read list.  It’s also a riveting story, well told.

Seabrook’s progenitors were notable for having figured out how to grow vegetables at a huge scale in southern New Jersey, and how to freeze them so they could be shipped, stored, and sold at great profit.  Until things went bad, they were the largest vegetable growers on the eastern seabord, if not anywhere.  This book has plenty to say about how they did it—bought seed, planted, harvested, froze, shipped.

It is also about who did the work and how the worker were treated—farm labor as viewed from the owners’ perspective (unshared by the author, who is unsparing in his reporting).

I learned a lot about industrial vegetable farming from reading this book.

C.F. [Seabrook’s grandfather] could not have chosen a better time to build his vegetable factory.  Food prices, already rising in 1913, were further boosted by the outbreak of war in Europe, causing agricultural production abroad to contract severely.  The price of a bushel of corn in Minnesota rose from 59 cents in 1914 to $1.30 in 1919.  Wheat went from $1.05 a bushel to $2.34.  Mechanization was bringing tractors, threshers, seed drillers, and combine harvesters to the cultivation of wheat, rye, oats, and barley, greatly increasing production.  Land prices rose accordingly. (p.79)

I looked up today’s figures: Corn is $4.50 per bushel; wheat $5 to $6.  No wonder our agricultural production system is such a mess and requires so much in subsidies.

The Seabrooks of that era were ungenerous with their workers, particularly those who were Black, and had to deal with a strike in 1934.

Eyewitnesses…claimed the Seabrooks and their henchman crushed the strike using fire hoses, tear gas, mass arrests, and imported gangster named Red Sanders, armed vigilantes, and the local chapter of the Ku Klux Klan, who spread terror by burning crosses in front of Black Workers’ homes.  One ACLU observer reported seeing my uncle Belford, of whom I had only fond memories, leading a tear-gas attack on a striking worker’s house and setting it on fire with a woman and small children inside. (p. 109)

This must have been one tough book to write.  Seabrook says it took him 30 years to dig out the history of his complicated family and come to terms with it.  He did a great job.  It’s a great read.

Reviews

Jan 22 2026

Canada’s new food warning label!

Tags: ,
Jan 21 2026

Journal retracts paper exonerating glyphosate (Roundup) from any harm to humans.

The journal, Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, has retracted a major paper, one that “had a significant impact on regulatory decision-making regarding glyphosate and Roundup for decades.”  The now-retracted paper had found the herbicide, glyphosate, to pose no health risk to humans.

Quotes from the retraction notice:

  • Concerns were raised regarding the authorship of this paper, validity of the research findings in the context of misrepresentation of the contributions by the authors and the study sponsor and potential conflicts of interest of the authors.
  • The article’s conclusions regarding the carcinogenicity of glyphosate are solely based on unpublished studies from Monsanto, which have failed to demonstrate tumorigenic potential.
  • The authors did not include multiple other long-term chronic toxicity and carcinogenicity studies…[although] they are aware of other studies, that were unpublished and not available.
  • Litigation in the United States revealed correspondence from Monsanto suggesting that the authors of the article were not solely responsible for writing its content…employees of Monsanto may have contributed to the writing of the article without proper acknowledgment as co-authors.
  • The authors may have received financial compensation from Monsanto for their work on this article, which was not disclosed as such.
  • The lack of clarity regarding which parts of the article were authored by Monsanto employees creates uncertainty about the integrity of the conclusions drawn.
  • It is unclear how much of the conclusions of the authors were influenced by external contributions of Monsanto without proper acknowledgments.

The now retracted paper: Safety Evaluation and Risk Assessment of the Herbicide Roundup and Its Active Ingredient, Glyphosate, for Humans. Gary M. Williams, Robert Kroes, and Ian C. Munro.  Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology 31, 117–165 (2000).  doi:10.1006/rtph.1999.1371

This paper exonerates glyphosate and its main metabolites from any harm other than eye irritation.  It says [Note: this is not necessarily my view] they:

  • Are poorly absorbed.
  • Are eliminated essentially unmetabolized.
  • Do not penetrate skin.
  • Do not bioaccumulate.
  • Are not toxic.
  • Do not damage DNA.
  • Do not cause mutations.
  • Do not cause cancer.
  • Do not cause developmental problems.
  • Do not affect fertility.

The paper concludes: “Roundup herbicide does not result in adverse effects on development, reproduction, or endocrine systems in humans and other
mammals…Roundup herbicide does not pose a health risk to humans.”

The authors disclosure statement: “…we thank the toxicologists and other scientists at Monsanto who made significant contributions to the development of exposure assessments and through many other discussions. The authors were given complete access to toxicological information contained in the great number of laboratory studies and archival material at Monsanto in St. Louis, Missouri, and elsewhere…We also acknowledge the participation and assistance of Douglass W. Bryant and Cantox Health Sciences International for scientific and logistical support in the preparation of the final manuscript.”

COMMENT

Producers of genetically modified seeds, particularly Monsanto (now owned by Bayer), have long argued that the glyphosate herbicide used with these seeds is safe and harmless to human health.  This now-retracted paper supported that argument and made it difficult to argue otherwise.  When people made ill by high glyphosate exposure filed lawsuits, lawyers were able to read internal Monsanto documents.  These exposed the role of Monsanto in manipulating this research.  Carey Gillam discusses one case in her book, The Monsanto Papers: Deadly Secrets, Corporate Corruption, and One Man’s Search for Justice, which I reviewed here.

The retraction notice suggests that the journal editors were convinced that

  • The authors cherry-picked the data
  • Were paid to write the paper
  • Worked with Monsanto to write the paper

Obviously, none of this was disclosed—reason enough for retraction.

Better late than never.  Gillam published her book in 2021. 

Next, how about a ban?  The EPA says 280 million pounds of glyphosate are used annually in the United States.

Wouldn’t we all be better off without it?

Resource

Thanks to Tom Philpott for sending this: NYT’s Pro-Big Ag Pundit Gets It Right on Manure, But Misses the Mark on Herbicides

Jan 20 2026

RIP USDA’s Household Food Security reports

Last September, the USDA said it would stop conducting the annual hunger survey, because they were “redundant, costly, politicized, and extraneous.”

As I said at the time,

If you live in an Orwellian universe, you can use not measuring to pretend that food insecurity does not exist and certainly that it is not increasing as a result of your policies.

It took a long time for the anti-hunger community to achieve federal documentation of this enormous social problem.  I suppose we will now have to go back to the old days of local anti-hunger reports.  See my comments (with Sally Guttmacher) on state hunger reports.

On December 30, the USDA published the last of its formerly annual reports: 2024 Household Food Security report.

The inconvenient finding continues: food insecurity continues to rise.

And this was before the current Trump-era cuts to SNAP and increases in the cost of food and health care.

No wonder they don’t want to publish reports like these any more.